Over one million people flock to Lalibela for these Christmas celebrations and throughout the day seeing hundreds of thousands of pilgrims, monks and priests, it became apparent that this estimate could be closer than I first thought possible! We woke up early on January 7th and joined the pilgrims in their candlelight vigil for their Christmas celebrations and prayer.
The atmosphere of this religious spectacle is extraordinary and seeing the devotion of the faithful can have a profound effect on those that are fortunate to visit. It is an absolute honor to be in Lalibela for Christmas, sharing the experience with the Ethiopian Orthodox Christians and learning about their traditions and culture. The true meaning of Christmas being celebrated in the same way as it has here for over 800 years is truly a sight and feeling to experience. Words cannot express this unbelievable and unforgettable religious holiday in Lalibela. Timeless traditions full of symbolic and significant moments of importance.
Surrounded by masses of devoted Ethiopian Orthodox Christians in white draped cloth holding candles was an intense and spectacular feeling. I was unable to move my arms after I took some initial photos and videos while in the crowd (we were packed in so tightly!!), so couldn’t get my camera or phone out for any more photos. It was so special just being in the moment and feeling amazed and honored to be having this experience.
People are so happy during this religious holiday and whilst you are often cramped in crowded areas, tunnels and underground pathways there is a friendly and understanding respect towards everyone.
Ethiopia has its own calendar and time
January 7th is the date that Orthodox Christians celebrate Christmas in Ethiopia and the holy city of Lalibela is where they’d all like to be on this religious day of celebration! Lalibela is known as Africa’s Jerusalem due to its 11 unique churches and artificial “River Jordon” which was a vision of King Lalibela during his reign. An area of religious and historic significance and one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ethiopia, the religious ceremonies have remained relatively unchanged for hundreds of years.
The Ethiopian calendar shares many similarities with the Coptic and Julian calendars, but it is not the same. Ethiopian time is also different, but fortunately most people in the tour industry will use international time when speaking and meeting tourists.
Christmas morning ceremonies are held around the famous Lalibela Bete Maryam church
The sunrise Christmas celebrations on January 7th centre around Bete Maryam (sometimes spelled Mariam) which means House of Mary. Bete Maryam is the oldest church in Lalibela dates back to the 7th century during the kingdom of Axum. However, most believe the churches were all built during the 12th and 13th centuries after being commissioned by King Lalibela.
An amazing atmosphere with so many devoted people
The courtyard surrounding the church is packed full of pilgrims during the Christmas celebrations. On the surrounding cliff rim there is an area for dignitaries and ambassadors from various countries. The remaining rim edge is lined with priests who sway in unison, rattling their sistrum (a percussion instrument) and chanting in unison. Further on the rim and surrounding the hills of the church are thousands of worshippers. People view the proceedings from absolutely everywhere and are in every direction.
An incredible display of historic, traditional and religious harmony
Inside the court yard there is a tight circle of priests with drummers in the inner circle. They have moments of chanting, dancing and swaying in faultless unison with the pilgrims joining in (vocally) in moments of celebration. These priests perform their traditional hymns and movements with varying intensity throughout the morning. Once the priests above the rim respond, the ones below move further around the courtyard and repeat again and again all around the outside of the church. The priests above represent angels in heaven and the priests below chanting represent the people on earth. The priests above respond to their hymns and chanting and the seamless 2-3 hour ceremony at Bete Maryam church is an incredible display of devotion in religious solidarity and harmony.
-Jayne McClean